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A bright bathroom with white subway tiles and a bathtub
A level flange and a fresh seal are the heart of the job.
Answered by a plumber
Fixtures

Toilet Installation in Burlington

We pull the old toilet, scrape off the old wax, repair a cracked flange with a spanner ring, bed the new bowl on wax or foam, run a braided supply from a new shut-off and caulk the base.

  • The cause found and shown to you before work starts
  • On the truck: Flange repair rings, wax and foam seals
  • Common find: Rusted or cracked closet flange
  • Tested by: Leak check at the base and supply
  • Licensed & insured (details on request)
  • Price before tools
  • Clean, covered work area
  • Tested before we leave
At a glance
On the truck
Flange repair rings, wax and foam seals
Common find
Rusted or cracked closet flange
Tested by
Leak check at the base and supply

When you need toilet installation

Cracked porcelain is the obvious case. Hairline cracks in the tank or bowl tend to grow, and a split tank can empty several litres onto the floor in minutes. Other reasons are quieter: a toilet from the 1980s that uses 13 litres or more per flush, a bowl that clogs every week, a base that rocks on a worn flange, or a renovation where the old fixture simply does not fit the new room. When the only issue is a running tank or weak flush, toilet repair is often the better value.

How the job is done

  1. Shut the supply, flush and sponge out the remaining water.
  2. Remove the old toilet and check the flange and the subfloor beneath it.
  3. Repair or replace the flange if it is cracked, corroded or set too low.
  4. Drop the new bowl onto a brand-new wax ring or foam seal, with new closet bolts.
  5. Level, tighten evenly and attach the tank.
  6. Hook up a new braided line, and swap a stubborn stop valve.
  7. Run repeated flushes while watching the floor seal and tank bolts.

We haul the old fixture away.

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Burlington homes and this work

A great many Burlington bathrooms date from the 1970s and 1980s. Floors in those rooms have often been retiled once or twice, each time raising the floor height and leaving the flange sitting below the tile. That gap is a common source of slow leaks and soft subfloor. We check for it and use a spacer or extension where needed. Basement washrooms in older homes sometimes sit on concrete with a flange that has been patched over the years, and those also deserve a careful look.

Some low-flow models from the early 2000s earned a poor reputation for weak flushes. Modern high-efficiency toilets that use 4.8 litres or less per flush perform far better and can trim water use on your Halton Region bill.

What affects the scope

  • Condition of the flange and subfloor once the old toilet is lifted
  • Rough-in distance from the wall, usually 12 inches but sometimes 10 or 14
  • Wall-hung or specialty models that need carrier frames
  • Whether the shut-off valve needs replacing
  • Moving the toilet to a new location, which becomes a drain alteration

Before we arrive

If you are buying the toilet yourself, check the distance from wall to bolt centre and buy to suit. Leave the box unopened until we check it for shipping damage. Clear the bathroom floor and remove rugs.

Questions we get on this

How do I measure the rough-in?

Take the measurement from drywall, ignoring trim, to the middle of the floor bolts.

Is a wax ring or a foam seal better?

Either seals well on a correctly set flange. Foam forgives a little repositioning; wax has decades of history.

Can a new toilet fix a weekly clog?

If the clog is in the toilet itself, often yes. If the drain beyond it is the problem, a new bowl will not help.

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