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Pipes

Burst Pipe Repair in Burlington

Split copper, cracked PEX fittings and frozen lines get cut back to sound pipe and rejoined with soldered couplings or crimp fittings. We then pressure the line and check every joint nearby.

  • The cause found and shown to you before work starts
  • On the truck: Torch, solder, crimpers, push-fit
  • First move: Main valve off and lines drained
  • Tested by: Holding pressure on the repaired run
  • Licensed & insured (details on request)
  • Price before tools
  • Clean, covered work area
  • Tested before we leave
At a glance
On the truck
Torch, solder, crimpers, push-fit
First move
Main valve off and lines drained
Tested by
Holding pressure on the repaired run

When you need burst pipe repair

Most burst pipes in Burlington happen in January and February, after a run of nights well below freezing. Water in an exposed line freezes, expands and splits the pipe, often without any leak until the thaw. Others fail from age: pinhole corrosion in old copper, a crimp fitting on poly-B that gives way, or a supply hose behind a washing machine that finally bursts. Whatever the cause, if water is spraying or running, close the main valve, then pick up the phone.

How the job is done

First on site, we double-check the supply is closed and find the damaged section. Drywall or ceiling tile sometimes needs to be opened to see the full length of the split, because frost damage often extends past the visible crack.

  1. Isolate the line and drain remaining water
  2. Expose the line and examine it either side of the split
  3. Remove the failed length until healthy pipe remains
  4. Install new pipe with soldered, pressed or approved fittings
  5. Restore water slowly, check for leaks and test pressure

If the cause was cold, we look at why that pipe froze. If the cause was the pipe itself, we tell you plainly whether nearby sections are likely to follow.

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Describe the drain, pipe or fixture and get a straight answer on the phone.

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Burlington homes and this work

Classic trouble spots include hose bibs on north walls, kitchen supply lines on exterior walls, pipes in garage ceilings below bonus rooms, and crawlspaces under additions. Houses finished between roughly 1978 and 1996 may still hold polybutylene supply piping, which can fail without warning at fittings. Pipes that have already frozen once are worth a look before the next cold snap; frozen pipe thawing done early can prevent a split altogether.

What affects the scope

Access is the main variable. An exposed basement run is a short fix; one inside a finished wall behind kitchen cabinets is not. Pipe material changes the approach, and so does finding more than one break, which happens often after a deep freeze. Where an old system keeps failing, a broader look at replacement may be wiser than repeated patches.

Before we arrive

Keep the main shut-off closed. Set the water heater to pilot or off if the supply stays shut for long. Move valuables and electronics away from the wet area, and kill the breakers feeding any wet outlets or lights. Mop what you can safely reach. If you could not find or close the main valve, tell us when you call so we can walk you through it or bring a curb key. Low pressure after a repair elsewhere in the house can also be a clue; a toilet repair or faucet check sometimes follows a burst.

Questions we get on this

Should I turn off the water heater after a pipe bursts?

If the main water is off for long, yes. Turn a gas unit down to its pilot setting; with an electric tank, flip its breaker off so the elements do not run dry.

Will my insurance cover a burst pipe?

Many policies cover sudden water damage, but terms vary. Phone your insurance company soon and save every picture and receipt.

How can I tell if other pipes froze too?

Open every tap once the repair is done. A fixture with no flow or very weak flow may still be frozen or damaged.

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